7. Explore Rennes-le-Chateau

Lynn and I headed out for the unknown today, to find and explore the famous Rennes-le-Chateau. Not too far to drive, perfect weather and no crowds, this would be good. This place has a looooong history, dating back to 700+ years B.C., with fortifications built as early as the 800’s A.D. The site is high atop a plateau, with enormous panoramic views  in all directions. Anyhow, over the centuries, a castle with walls, towers and a small church and attached small village came to be, then eventually fell into disarray. In the 1800’s, a young priest was appointed to run the church, and the big mystery began. He spent a fortune to rebuild the church, added several buildings, plus gardens and villas. No explanation of where the money came from  was ever made, but rumors abounded that he’d discovered hidden treasure from the Templars, the Visigoths, the French Revolution, or a variety of other ancient occupiers of the site. So, present-day owners of the property trade on the unique beauty of the site, and this unexplained mystery, to encourage visitors to come, park, see, tour, eat and buy souvenirs…We had to go! 

Memorial to local soldiers killed in World War I

Once we drove the climbing switchback road (2 kilometers) up to the Chateau, we parked, paid our fee, then climbed a vertical stairway into the village. There are restaurants, small homes, and shops scattered around, occupied any residents who stay up there all the time. We made it to the Church of Sainte-Marie Madeleine, beautiful inside with a contorted statute of Satan holding the baptismal font. Go figure. Our curiosity compelled us to seek guidance from the Museum office, where we engaged in an iPad-guided-tour debacle, ending in us seeking out lunch at the nearby Jardin de Marie outdoor restaurant. We were seated under a huge tree with lush shady limbs spreading out over a big goldfish pond. Infested with hundreds of tiny birds that flitted about constantly during our meal. Scenic, picturesque, cute, and pretty, except when they pooped on my pants and on Lynn’s placemat! Fortunately, they were TINY birds, so our food escaped unscathed, and was delicious.

We gave up on a guided tour, and explored further on our own, finding the Tower and the incredible views over every portion of the surrounding valley below. Cool modern sculptures were randomly scattered throughout the place, from a former artist resident. Eventually, we’d had enough,  so headed home to Quillan. First we detoured back toward Chalabre, retracing the bike route I rode yesterday, so Lynn could see the beautiful scenery I found, plus the cool little village of Brenac. Then, home for some ice cream at the bar near our house, then rest. Tomorrow: Spas at Ax-les-Thermes with Paulita and Earl!